Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Wolf Moon

The Wolf Moon of Mid-Winter will be Supersized Tonight:

The 2010 Wolf Moon will appear 30 percent brighter and 14 percent larger than any other full moon this year, because our cosmic neighbor will actually be closer to Earth than usual. The moon will be at its closest perigee—the nearest it gets to our planet during its egg-shaped orbit—for 2010 at 4:04 a.m. ET Saturday, reaching a distance of 221,577 miles (356,593 kilometers) from Earth.

 

Wolf Moon Tonight! Beware of Earthquakes!

And as if that were not enough Mars will be Right Next to the Wolf Moon:

Look into the eastern sky about 7 p.m. Friday or 8 p.m. Saturday and you may ask, “What’s that bright, red star next to the full moon?” That’s no star, it’s the planet Mars, and it happens to be a mere 61.7 million miles from Earth, according to Jon U. Bell, director of the Hallstrom Planetarium at Indian River State College in Fort Pierce.  “That’s actually pretty close for Mars,” Bell said.

 Photo Courtesy of Sky&Telescope

I will be observing the Wolf Moon from Zaisan Tolgoi.

 

Zaisan Tolgoi. If you hear someone howling at the Moon it will probably be me.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Second of the Nine-Nines | Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö

Update 01/05/10 / 8:00 a.m.

Update 01/04/10 / 7:30 a.m.

Another Magical Moment! This is real Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö weather!

I mentioned earlier that the First of the Nine-Nines—the Nine-Nines being nine periods of nine days each, each period characterized by a certain type of winter weather—started on the day of the Winter Solstice, which occurred here in Mongolia on December 22. The Second of the Nine Nines, according to the admittedly outdated and outmoded Gregorian calendar which unfortunately seems to hold much of the world in its thrall (I prefer the Lunar Calendar myself), began on December 31. Known as Khorz Arkhi Khöldönö, this is the time when twice-distilled homemade Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. As you will recall, the first of the Nine-Nines was the time when regular, or once distilled, arkhi freezes. As this indicates, the second period should be colder than the first, since twice distilled arkhi obviously has a much higher alcohol content. This morning at 7:30, however, it was a relatively balmy Minus 20°F / –29°C compared to Minus 40ºF / –40ºC back on December 25th. The Second of the Nine-Nines does not end until January 8th, however, and we could well have another cold snap before then. 

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Season’s Greetings

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Magical Moment | Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö

This morning at 7:34 a.m we reached that Magical Moment when the Fahrenheit and Celsius temperature scales coincide. It was Minus 40 degrees according to both. 

As you know, the Winter Solstice occurred on December 21-22 (December 22, 1:47 a.m. in Ulaan Baatar), marking the beginning of Winter. In Mongolia the Winter Solstice also marked the beginning of the so-called Nine-Nines: Nine periods of nine days each, each period marked by some description of winter weather. The first of the Nine-Day periods is Nermel Arkhi Khöldönö, the time when normally distilled Mongolian arkhi (vodka) freezes. It certainly would have frozen last Night. The next Nine-Day Period starts on December 31. Stayed tuned for updates.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Winter Solstice | 2009-2012

You are no doubt aware that the Winter Solstice is rapidly approaching. Here in Ulaan Baatar the solstice occurs at exactly 1:47 am on the 22nd. I am not yet quite sure what I will do that night, but if you see a light flickering on the top of Öndör Gegeenii Uul do not be alarmed, it is just me huddling around a fire (the temperatures have been going down to minus 35ºF / -37ºC at night). I do not know what you have planned for the Solstice, but as I alway do on these occasions I am asking people to refrain from making any Animal or Human Sacrifices.

As can be seen here the Waxing Crescent Moon sneaks by Jupiter around the Solstice. As an added bonus you should be able to see the usually elusive Mercury if you go out in the early hours of the evening after sunset.

Jupiter and the Waxing Crescent Moon should be putting on quite a show on the night of the Winter Solstice. Graphics courtesy of Sky & Telescope.

In case you were wondering it is exactly 1095 days, 17 hours, 25 minutes and 14 seconds from the 2009 Winter Solstice to the 2012 Winter Solstice (if you are keeping track that is 94,670,714 seconds), when as many people suspect the World is going to end. Indeed, the movie 2012 recently opened here in Ulaan Baatar, in English with Mongolian subtitles. I know of at least one company whose employees went en masse to see the show. Apparently they are working the date into their business plan. One of these people, who is also a professor at the Mongolian National University, opined that the movie was based on “scientific data.” Since I have not seen the movie I will not comment on that.

There are several Shambhalists here in Ulaan Baatar who are predicting that the Final War between the Forces of Shambhala and the Barbarians will also begin in 2012. They swear up and down that this has nothing to do with the whole Mayan Calendar Business. According to these sources, the signal in our three-dimensional world that the War would begin in the near future was the Destruction of the Bamiyan Buddhas in March of 2001. These same sources note that Chingis Khan, after invading Afghanistan, left a detachment of troops in the Bamiyan area to protect the Bamiyan Buddhas. The descendants of these people, known as Hazaras, still live in the region. Subjected to intense persecution by the Taliban, they were unable to fulfill their duty and the Bamiyan Buddhas were destroyed.

Bamiyan Valley, with the Buddha niche visible in the cliffs to the left

Bamiyan Buddha before destruction by the TalibanBamiyan Buddha niche after destruction of the statue

Keep in mind that even if the Shambhala War does begin in 2012 we will probably not notice any immediate effects in our three-dimensional world. The War will be fought in another dimension, and subsequent events in our mundane world will be a mere shadow play of a much vaster cosmic conflict.

See Stars Over Washington for the inevitable connection between the Winter Solstice and the continuing war in Afghanistan.

By the way, the first person from the Occident ever to see the Bamiyan Buddhas was the eccentric Hungarian Wanderer-Scholar Csoma de Koros, who is also responsible for introducing the Shambhala Mythologem into the Occidental World.

I have made my own preparations for 2012, come what may. I have hidden 15 kilos of Puerh Tea in a cave on Bogd Khan Mountain, the location known only to myself and one other person. The tea was five years old when I hid it and so will be ten years old in 2012. If the world does end I intend to enjoy the spectacle while sipping suitably aged Puerh tea. If the world does not end the tea should serve as a valuable hedge against inflation and the rapidly devaluing dollar.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Balsamic Moon

The Balsamic Moon begins today, December 13. As you probably know, the Balsamic Moon is the Moon phase starting three, or sometimes four, days before a New Moon. The New Moon this month occurs on the 16th at 8:02 p.m. local time.

The Balsamic Moon is the perfect time to stir out uncertainty and confusion because it is the time for psychic clearing. Wishes are more readily fulfilled as the way is cleared to feeling core need. A wish made at the Balsamic Moon is more likely to come true because needs are felt more deeply now. The more deeply a need is felt, the more invocative energy goes into the Moon cycle and the more likely this need will be met. Fulfillment comes at Full Moon in response to what is seeded at the New. Seed intentions may be more consciously sown when the Crescent Moon appears to be beginning.

The Balsamic Moon Rises today at 5:18 a.m. local time (check for Moon Rise In Your Area), just at the time I am usually completing my morning orisons, which is especially auspicious.

As I predicted, the Last Moon Cycle Was A Dilly. This Moon Cycle, with the Full Moon falling, by coincidence, on January 1 this year, should be a Doozie, which is an upgrade from a Dilly. Expect a lot of weird stuff to happen on New Year’s Eve and the next day! (I mean, of course, weirder than usual for New Year’s Eve and Day.)

By the way, Orion, the Hunter, is currently presenting a spectacular sight in the evening sky to the southeast. Before slouching off into the drinking dens and Louche Coffee Houses where most of you (you know who you are, so it’s no use trying to deny it!) spend your evenings in dissipation take a moment to glance up and enjoy this awesome display.

Constellation of Orion

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Moon Cycles

The Waxing Sickle Moon has been presenting an absolutely gorgeous spectacle as it slides by Jupiter each evening before sinking behind Öndör Gegeenii Uul just south of my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi. The Full Cold Moon, or Unduvap Poya Moon, as it is known to Buddhists, is coming up on December 2, and I predict it will be a dilly. We are in the midst of an extremely auspicious lunar cycle. At such times Portals to Shambhala have been known to appear in the strangest places . . .

Graphic courtesy of Sky & Telescope

Turkey | Istanbul | Beyoglu

Not having found any trace of a Portal to Shambhala in the Sultanahmed Area, the old historical core of Istanbul, I decided to check out of my hotel and move over to the Beyoglu District on the other side of the Golden Horn. As I mentioned earlier, the old tekke of the Mevlevi Whirling Dervishes is in this area. Gunj, my host in Istanbul, was kind enough to take time off from her incessant labors on the behalf of Central Asian Artists and accompany me. Any journey with Gunj when she has free time entails a lot of stops along the way to smell the roses, or in this case, taste a fish sandwich at the famous water-side outdoor restaurants near the Galata Bridge where the fish are actually cooked on boats tied up alongside the dock.

View from near Galata Bridge

Fish restaurants near the Galata Bridge. Fish are cooked on the boats and served shore side.

Gunj at the Galata Bridge

The Golden Horn with the Süleymaniye Mosque at the upper left

The fish sandwich was just an appetizer. Having crossed the Galata Bridge to Beyoglu we stopped at another one of Gunj’s favorite restaurants, the historic Tarihi Karaköy Balik Loksantasi, for the next course—Fish Soup.

Then we climbed up the steep cobblestone streets of Beyoglu to the Galata Tower . . .

. . . where we had tea and dessert at this charming outdoor cafe.

Finally we arrived the Hotel Londres, Gunj’s favorite hostelry in all of Istanbul. This place is dripping with history. It was founded in 1892, one of the first European-style hotels to service travelers arriving on the Orient Express, the first non-stop version of which reached Istanbul from Paris in June of 1889. Although the hotel has been remodeled several times it still retains a lot of its nineteenth-century features. The doors to the rooms and the locks may well be the originals. Over the years many famous people have frequented the hotel, including Ernest Hemingday and more recently Gunj, who celebrated one of her birthdays here. I half-expect to see Peter Lorre simpering in some dark corner.

Peter Lorre. If he didn’t stay at the Hotel Londres he should have.

Just down the street from the Hotel Londres is the equally famous Pera Palace Hotel, also founded in 1892. According to legend, Agatha Christie wrote Murder on the Orient Express in Room 411 of the hotel. The room is still available, if you desperately need an Agatha Christie fix.

Lobby of the Hotel Londres

Gunj lighting up the Hotel Londres Lobby with her luminious presence.

Gunj deciding the fate of some hitherto unknown Central Asian artist.

Hemingway no doubt bellied up to this very bar. The bartender may still be contemplating his order.

Staircase in the Hotel leading to the Rooftop Cafe

Gunj relaxing from her otherwise relentless labors at her favorite table in the Rooftop Cafe of the Hotel Londres.

Sunset over the Golden Horn from the rooftop cafe of the Hotel Londres. Along with the Pyramids of Egypt and Zaisan Tolgoi in Ulaan Baatar surely one of the world’s most stunning vistas.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Ovoo Offering

Tuesday, October 6, the 17th day of the Lunar Month, was one of the most auspicious days of the year in Mongolia. I wish I could say why. Unfortunately the half dozen or more explanations I heard all went in one ear and out the other. Perhaps some local pandit can enlighten us on this matter. (Batbold, are you there?) Anyhow, all kinds of festivities were planned city-wide. My friend Ms. S and I decided to commemorate this day by making an ovoo offering at the ovoo just below Öndör Gegeenii Uul, the mountain directly in front of my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi. Walking up the valley to the mountain we passed several gers where women in dress deels were arranging big spreads of food on outdoor tables. By the bank of the small stream running down the valley a group of six men were sharing what looked to be not their first bottle of vodka for the day, although it was only 8:00 in the morning. We turned and climbed up toward Öndör Gegeenii Uul, the mountain to which I normally retire to View the Heavens.

Öndör Gegeenii Uul

Ms. S offering a prayer to Öndör Gegeenii Uul

Today however we were headed for the ovoo about half way up Öndör Gegeenii Uul and not to the summit of the mountain itself.

Ovoo on the way to Öndör Gegeenii Uul. On the far right can be seen the Khiimoryn Ovoo, where by tradition male Ulaan Baatarites go to celebrate the Tsagaan Sar, the New Year’s celebration.

Looking toward the city from the ovoo. Zaisan Tolgoi (hill) is at the far right.

Ovoo offering of cookies, candies, milk, and vodka

Ms. S circumambulating the ovoo

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Harvest Moon

Update: see Tang Dynasty Times for more on the Harvest Moon.

The Harvest Moon will grace the skies over Zaisan Tolgoi on October 4, rising at 5:58 pm and setting at 8:04 am on the 5th, This year I intend to view the entire transit of the Full Moon across the skies from my perch on the mountain in front of my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi. Obviously this will require staying up all night. I will build a small fire, so if you night owls in Ulaan Baatar stumbling out of your lowly drinking dens see a glowing light on the top of the mountain behind Zaisan Tolgoi do not be alarmed. It is not the return of Baron Ungern-Sternberg.

My mountain, top center

As you probably already know the Harvest Moon is the Full Moon closest to the Autumn Equinox, which usually occurs around September 23th. Three years out of four, roughly speaking, the Harvest Moon will be in September, but this year it occurs in October, eleven days after the Autumn Equinox. The previous Full Moon was on September 5, 18 days before the Autumn Equinox.

The Harvest Moon was memorialized in the song “Shine On, Harvest Moon” by the immortal Ruth Etting, American’s Sweetheart of Song:

Shine on, shine on harvest moon up in the sky
I ain't had no lovin' since January, February, June, or July
Snow time ain't no time to sit outdoors and spoon
Shine on, shine on harvest moon for me 'n' my gal

C'mon, shine on harvest moon way up there in the sky. Don'tcha
know I ain't had no lovin' since January, February, June, AND July? Now, looka
here—don't you know better than to set out there in the snow 'n' spoon?
C'mon, I don't want no half moon, I want a full moon.

Oh, won't you shine on, shine on harvest moon (shine on, shine on)
Up in the sky? (shine on)
I ain't had no lovin' since January, February, June, or July
(ah-ooba, ah-ooba, ah-ooba , ah-ooh)
Don't you know you're gonna freeze to death
Settin' out there in the snow tryin' to spoon?
So shine on, shine on harvest moon for me 'n' my gal

Ruthie, America’s Sweetheart, baring her gams, which was pretty daring back in 1935.

The Hunter’s Moon, defined simply as the next Full Moon after the Harvest Moon, is my personal favorite. This year it will occur on November 3. Mark your calendars now.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Ma Lama | Mantra

Ma Lama recently dropped by my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi. In addition to performing a luijin he also recited several mantras. His version of Om Mani Padma Hum Can Be Been and Heard Here.

Ma Lama

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Lady GaGa

Spent an afternoon holed up in my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi watching the rain clouds blow over Bogd Khan Mountain as I drank Shan Ling Xi Ooolong Tea and listened to Lady GaGa. I’m thinking she is a reincarnation of a Tokharian Caravanserai Singer I once heard.

Lady GaGa

As so often happens when I drink Shan Ling Xi Oolong Tea on rainy afternoons my thoughts soon drifted to Kuchean Dancers:

A rigorous, twirling dance, the Sogdian Whirl was usually performed on a colorful felt carpet. The dance took the Tang Capital of Xian by storm. Not only the emperor, but his favorite concubine, the infamous Yang Guifei—along with her "favorite," the 400 pound Sogdian-Turk An Lushan—could perform this exotic dance, snacking on Lychees from Canton and sipping grape wine out of Roman cut glass goblets, all night long. There were Sogdian dances danced to Persian melodies, played on Persian lutes and harps, Indian dances and music and those from the Northern steppes and Korea. Without a doubt, most famous of all the Tang dances was the music and dance of Kucha.

I should point out the Sogdian Whirl, popular during the Tang Dynasty in the 8th century, was updated as The Locomotion in 1962 by Little Eva.

Mongolia | Taiwan Tea | Bao Zhong Oolong

I am thrilled to report that the Spring Crop of Bao Zhong Oolong Tea from Taiwan is now available! My shipment of the first picking of the year arrived two days ago and after sampling it I am ready to announce that the 2009 Spring Crop is equal to if not better than the 2008 crop, which as most of you probably know was a bumper year for Bao Zhong.

Bao Zhong tea is a very Lightly Oxidized Oolong Tea, right on the cusp between green tea and oolong tea. Many people who try it think that it is indeed a green tea, although it is slightly oxidized, making it an oolong tea. In any case, with the arrival of the new crop of Bao Zhong can the First Appearance of a Wild Flower here in Zaisan Tolgoi be far behind? These are exciting times we are living in!

Very lightly oxidized Bao Zhong tea leaves

Brewed Bao Zhong. Savor the gorgeous greenish-yellow color.

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Birthday Bacchanalia

To celebrate my Birthday I recently held a Bacchanalia at my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi. Present were Uyanga, Jaga, Tuul, Yooton, and Saraa.

Gorgeous Uyanga with an equally mouth-wateringly delectable Chicken

Tuul, Jaga, Yooton (a.k.a. Enkha) and Uyanga reveling at my Bacchanalia

Tuul

Yotoon, a.k.a. Enkha

Jaga (left) and Saraa, showing off her truly formidable biceps. In her senior year in High School she won First Prize in the Girls’ Arm Wrestling Competition.

Mongolia | Ulaan Baatar | Zaisan Tolgoi

It has occurred to me that while I have often mentioned Zaisan Tolgoi, the district where I live on the outskirts of Ulaan Baatar, I have never posted any photos of the Zaisan Tolgoi (tolgoi = head, or hill) itself. Since the temperatures recently soared into the mid-sixties Fº and Accounting Maven Saka had a day off work we decided that it was a good time to climb to the top of this well-known local landmark.

Approaching the summit of Zaisan Tolgoi

Saka taking a breather near the summit of Zaisan Tolgoi

The Ikh Burkhan (Big Buddha) and western Ulaan Baatar from the summit of Zaisan Tolgoi

Ikh Burkhan (Big Buddha)

Downtown Ulaan Baatar viewed from the summit

War Memorial at the summit of Zaisan Tolgoi

Mural on the inside of the War Memorial touting Mongolia-Soviet Union Friendship

More Mongolia-Soviet Union Friendship

Saka at the War Memorial

Ulaan Baatar from the War Memorial

Saka and still-frozen Tuul River beyond

Saka

New apartment complex just to the south of Zaisan Tolgoi, with Bogd Khan Mountain beyond