Germany | Berlin | Dahlem | Indian Art Museum

As I mentioned, most of the surviving art work from the Bezeklik Grottos Near Turpan is now scattered in museums around the world. Curious to see some examples I caught a bus from Turpan back to Urumqi and hopped a plane to Dubai, one of the United Arab Emirates, on the Persian Gulf.

Skyscapers in Dubai

Crossing the Creek on a water taxi from Old Dubai to New Dubai

From Dubai I winged on to Berlin, Germany. From the airport I took a bus down to Potsdamer Platz.

The new Bahnhof at Potsdamer Platz

I was of course anxious to see the Bezeklik artwork, but I thought it might be downright churlish not to stop in first at the Gemäldgalerie, just a stone’s throw from Potsdamer Platz, and see Botticelli’s famous painting of Venus.

Botticelli’s Venus (or perhaps Eve?)

Then I took the metro out to the Indian Art Museum (somewhat of a misnomer, since it covers Central Asia, among other Asian locales) in Dahlem, on the outskirts of Berlin. Here were the wall paintings “stolen” by Le Coq from Bezeklik.

Three Uighur Noblemen
Closeup of the Uighur Noblemen

Two Uighur Ladies

The museum also has a fabulous collection of Gandharan Buddhist Art plundered from what is now Pakistan and Afghanistan, plus a smattering of work from other Asian countries.

Gandharan Buddha

Cambodian Woman

See more photos of the Indian Art Museum. While in Berlin I also popped by the Museum of Egypt in Charlottenberg to see, among other items, the jaw-dropping statue of Nefertiti.

Nefertiti, often cited as one of the World’s Great Beauties, was born circa 1400 B.C. She later became the wife or consort of Amenhotep IV, famous for his worship of the god Aten. Amenhotep IV, or Akhenaten, as he is sometimes called, was one of the heroes of the notorious Savitri Devi (1905-1982), also known as Hitler's Priestess. Also see The Saffron Swastika.

China | Xinjiang | Turpan | Bezeklik

From Gaochang I mosied up to the nearby Bezeklik Grottos, located in the gorge of the Murtuk River, which flows through the Flaming Mountains. Here there are seventy-some caves dating from the fourth to thirteen centuries. At one time the caves were filled with one of the most staggering collections of Buddhist wall paintings in Central Asia and perhaps the world. Moslem iconoclasts, who arrived in the area in the late fourteen-century, damaged some of the paintings; Western archeologists, including Aurel Stein and Von Le Coq, removed many of the remaining paintings at the beginning of the twentieth century; and what was left was almost completely destroyed by the Mao’s Little Generals, the Red Guards, during the Cultural Revolution in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Although a dozen or so of the caves are now open to the public almost no of the original artwork, with the exception of some barely visible 1000 Buddhas motifs on the ceiling of one or two of the caves, has survived in situ. Many examples of the wall paintings, “stolen” by Western archeologists such as “the thief Stein” and others—as information signs at the complex are now quick to point out, can however be seen in museums in London, Berlin, and St. Petersburg. See Foreign Devils on the Silk Road: The Search for the Lost Cities and Treasures of Chinese Central Asia for the sordid details on Stein, Le Coq, et. al.

Given the fact that nearby Gaochang is often posited as a possible location of the history Shambhala, it is interesting to speculate the Kalachakra Tantra was composed here or at the many Buddhist monastic complexes tucked away in the adjacent mountains. However, the art work produced here was entirely lacking in any Vajrayana influences, leading one to believe that tantric Buddhism was not practised in this area.

The gorge of the Murtuk River, flowing through the Flaming Mountains. The cave complex is just above here.

The caves were dug into cliffs along the bank of the Murtuk River.
More views of Bezeklik:

Uighur women at Bezeklik

Near where the Murtuk River debouches onto the desert floor is another cave complex known as Shenjinkou, just visible above the curve of the river. This area is now closed to the public.

See More Photos of Bezeklik