C Don Croner’s World Wide Wanders

Friday, December 19, 2008

Mongolia | Roerichs | 1927 Expedition | Shambhala

Scarpered out to the eastern suburbs of Ulaan Baatar to see the house where Nicholas Roerich and his family stayed while in Ulaan Baatar in late 1926 and early 1927. Currently there are plans to turn this building into a museum dedicated to the Roerichs. Spearheading this endeavor are the renowned Professor Bira, who was a student of George Roerich in Moscow back in the 1950s, and Ulaan Bataar-based Savant and Badarchin-Gazarchin Glenn Mullin. For more information see Roerich–Mongolia Museum. How You Can Help.

The Roerich House, future site of the Roerich-Mongolia Museum

Glenn Mullin

The Roerichs at the house in the winter of 1927

After the Roerichs left Ulaan Baatar they continued on across the Gobi Desert. A few years ago I retraced part of their journey . . .

On March 6, 1925 the Roerich Expedition, led by painter, theater set designer, mystic, occultist, alleged spy, and dedicated Aghartian-Shambhalist Nicholas Roerich, left Darjeeling, India on what would be a three-year cirumnavigation of Inner Asia. Accompanying the expedition were Roerich’s wife Elena, a Theosophist and follower of Master Morya who would translate The Secret Doctrine of Madame Blavatsky into Russian, and his Harvard-educated son George, a world-class translator of Tibetan texts (see The Blue Annals). Roerich claimed he was looking for inspiration for his paintings, and his son George was supposedly engaged in various ethnological and linguistical researches, but from the three books churned out by Nicholas Roerich about the expedition it is pretty clear that they were actually looking for Shambhala. In The Secret Doctrine Madame Blavatsky had posited the idea that Shambhala might be found somewhere in the Gobi Desert. The Roerichs were also aware of the Tibetan version of the Shambhala mythologem, which placed Shambhala somewhere north of the Himalayas, possibly in the deserts of Inner Asia. Their journey would eventually lead them through the deserts of Mongolia where some believed the fabled kingdom could be found . . . Continued . . .

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Friday, November 21, 2008

Mongolia | Life & Death of the False Lama #7

I wrote earlier about the circumstances leading up to Dambijantsan’s Enrollment in a Monastery in Dolonnuur.

The beginnings of Dambijantsan’s monastic career at Dolonnuur are unclear. He may have taken the preliminary vow known as Rabjun, which is given to young boys when they first enter a monastery. In addition to learning to read and write Mongolian, he probably began to study at least written Tibetan, since at that time most Buddhist texts were in the Tibetan language, and he would have received lessons in elementary Buddhism teachings, including the doctrines of the Gelug, or Yellow Hat, sect, one of the four main divisions of Tibetan Buddhism and the one to which the Dalai Lama belonged.

From his fellow Mongolian students, many of them from Khalkh Mongolia, the young boy who had been born in Russia may have imbibed the anti-Manchu sentiment then growing among a people ever-increasingly impoverished by their Qing masters. And perhaps he even got a sense that all was not well in the Qing Dynasty itself, then still reeling from the disastrous Second Opium War of 1856–60. In 1860, the year Dambijantsan was born, British and French forces had entered Bejing and sacked the Summer Palace, then forced on the Qing government to sign the so-called Peking Convention, which opened several Chinese ports to foreign trade, gave foreigners the right to travel in the interior of China, allowed Christian missionaries into the country, and, perhaps most importantly, legalized the importation of opium, the mainstay of British trade at the time. It was a blow from which the Qing Dynasty would never really recover. The emperor Xianfeng, totally mortified by China’s defeat in the Opium War and the onerous settlement forced on him by the foreign powers, died a broken man a year later at the age of twenty-nine. One of his concubines would lead a coup état and subsequently rule China for the next forty-seven years as the Empress Dowager Cixi, overseeing the slow but inexorable decline leading to the final extinguishment of the Qing Dynasty. When the Qing Dynasty finally did fall, in 1911–12, Dambijantsan would be in western Mongolian, leading the fight for Mongolian independence.

Maisky and George Roerich both allude to Dambijantsan’s youthful soujourn in Dolonuur but give no details. According to one of his Russian biographers he excelled in his studies and was soon marked out for advancement in the lamaistic community. Talented and ambitious young monks were inevitably drawn to Lhasa, the wellspring and lodestone of Tibetan Buddhism, so it is not surprising that Dambijantsan would have set his sights on the Tibetan capital. There was a problem, however. Although a Kalmyk, he was apparently a Russian citizen, and most foreigners, including even Buddhists from Russia, were not allowed into Tibet. The earlier fraternal ties the Kalmyks had enjoyed with Tibet had ended at least a hundred years ago. But as a Mongolian-speaking Kalmyk studying in Doloonuur he might well have been able to pass himself off as a Khalkh from Mongolia. As such he would have been allowed to travel to Tibet and enroll in a monastery there. As we shall see, he would not have been the only Russian citizen to attempt this ploy. Dambijantsan’s propensity for assumed false identities might well have begun at this point.

In any event, we soon find Dambijantsan in Lhasa, the capital of Tibet and home of the Dalai Lama, enrolled in the Drepung Monastery, one of the “Great Three” monasteries of Tibet, along with Sera and Gandan. Drepung (literally “rice heap”) Monastery had been founded in 1416 by Jamyang Chöje Tashi Pelden (“Dashi-baldan“ in Mongolian accounts), born in Tibet near Samye Monastery, and a close disciple of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug sect. He was believed to be the Eleventh Appearance of Javzanbamba, the line of incarnations of which Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia, was the sixteenth. In addition to Drepung, he established more than one hundred other monasteries, retreat centers, and hermitages all over Tibet.

Drepung, located at the base of Gambo Utse Mountain about five miles west of the Potala, was once reputed to be the largest Buddhist monastery in the world, with as many as 8,000 monks in residence. The second, third and fourth Dalai Lamas lived at Drepung—this was before the completion of the Potala, later the residence of the Dalai Lamas—and their bodies were emtombed here. Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia stayed at Drepung during his visits to Tibet in the years 1649–51 and 1655–56. Drepung was divided into colleges (dratsangs) which specialized in a particular teaching or hosted monks from some specific area in the Buddhist world. One college, for example, hosted monks from Kham, in eastern Tibet. Gomang College was famous for its Mongolian monks, and it was here that Dambijantsan gravitated.

Drepung in general was renowned as an institute of higher learning, with many monks studying for fifteen or twenty year to achieve the Buddhist equivalent of a doctorate degree. Any monk aspiring to reach the pinnacle of Buddhist teachings could fulfill his ambitions here. According to George Roerich, Dambijantsan spent “many years” at Drepung. Unfortunately we do not know who his teachers were, what specific teachings he specialized in, or what initiations he might have taken. His years at Gomang College were not wasted, however. “People who knew him well,” according to Roerich, “affirm that his knowledge of Buddhist metaphysics and secret Tantric teachings was unusually vast and it seems he enjoyed a high reputation among the high lamas of Mongolia.”

Later in life Dambijantsan would claim that the met the great Buryat-Mongol Lama Agvan Dorzhiev while in Tibet. He did not relate when and where they met, but they both would have been at Drepung Monastery at about the same time, and it is quite possible they crossed paths at Gomang College, the traditional haunt of Mongolian monks in Lhasa. If their paths did not cross they certainly moved in parallel directions. Both were of Mongols born in Russia; both would study in Tibet, both would enter the political realm—Dorzhieff in Tibet and Dambijantsan in Mongolia; both would dream of estabishing a Buddhist-oriented realm on Inner Asia; and both were men who assumed very public roles but whose lives were always surrounded in mystery.

Look behind the curtains of late nineteenth-early twentieth century Russo-Tibeto-Mongolian affairs and you are more than likely to find there, directing the hesitant actors, prompting the tongue-tied, and ready to stride on stage himself whenever necessary, the enigmatic figure of the always-present but paradoxically ever-elusive Dorzhiev, or Ngawang Losang, as he was known in Tibetan. Dorzhiev was born in the valley of the Uda River, which flows into the Selenga River at the city of Ulaan Ude (in Dorzhiev’s time, Verkhneudinsk) in the current autonomous republic of Buryatia in the Wood Tiger Year of the 14th sixty-year cycle of the Kalachakra calendar (1854 according to the Gregorian calendar). A precocious student with obvious linguistic talents he soon excelled in Russian—his native language was Buryat—and, oddly enough for the time and place, French. He showed an early interest in Buddhism and quickly added Tibetan, the language of most religious texts, to his resumé. At the age of thirteen he received an Amitayus Long-Life Empowerment from a local lama, who also advised him to go to Tibet for further studies.

Tibet, however, was far off; and Dorzhiev’s means were limited. Örgöö, in Mongolia, was much closer, and it was there that Dorzhiev went a year later, in 1868. He took the precepts of an upsaka, or religious layman, restraining himself from killing, stealing, lying, irresponsible sexual activity, and the use of intoxicants. Apparently at this point he was not totally convinced of his religious vocation and not yet ready to become a fully ordained monk. Instead he soon married a woman named Kholintsog and may have fathered a child—coitus in the married state not being considered irresponsible sexual activity. He quickly discovered that “the household life, both in this and future births, is like sinking into a swamp of misery.” After consulting with his teacher, the revered Mongolian lama Penchen Chomphel, he decided to advance a further step on the path of his religious vocation by taking the vows of a celibate layman, or ubashi. At this point wife and purported child disappear from his curriculum vitae, never to be heard from again.

Agvan Dorzhiev

For the really serious student of Buddhism there was only one ultimate destination—Lhasa, the lodestar of Inner Asian Buddhists. Dambijantsan himself had reached this conclusion. Dorzhiev was nothing if not ambitious and he soon trained his sights on the Tibetan capital, where he hoped to eventually acquire the degree of geshé, the Buddhist equivalent of a doctorate. But here we get the first whiff of intrigue that was to hover like a miasma around Dorzhiev for the rest of his life. Historian of Russian and Tibetan relations Alexandre Andreyev has speculated that even at this early date Dorzhiev may have working for Russian intelligences services. Documents in the archives of the Imperial Russian Geographical Society propose “sending one or more Buryat Buddhists to Lhasa . . . with a Mongolian mission which was to bring back to Urga a new incarnation of the recently deceased Khutukhtu.” The Buryats were to concern themselves with “intelligence gathering.”

According to one source Dorzhief and Penchen Chomphel left Mongolia for Lhasa in the winter of 1873. They may well have been accompanying the caravan sent to bring back the little Tibetan boy, a relative of the Dalai Lama, who had determined to be the 8th Bogd Gegeen. As mentioned, all Europeans and citizens of the Russia empire were still strictly barred from entering Tibet at this time, and Dorzhiev, although a Buryat and a Buddhist, was still a citizen of Russia. Thus he went along on the caravan disguised as a Khalkh Mongol attendant to Penchen Chomphel. This was quite a dangerous undertaking for the Buryat. If exposed he would have been subjected to severe punishments, perhaps even ending up in a Tibetan dungeon. Any Tibetan who aided him risked having his property confiscated, or might have even be sewed up in a leather bag and thrown into the Tsangpo River to drown, the fate of Lama Senchen, the Shigatse monk who in the early 1880s had befriended the Indian pundit Chandra Das, who was in the pay of the British.

In Lhasa Dorzhiev found temporary refuge at Gomang College in Drepung Monastery. Here he could blend in with Mongolian monks who would be unlikely to expose him even if they know his true status. We cannot say for sure if Dambijantsan was there at the time. If our chronology is correct he entered the monastery at Dolonnuur around 1867 but we do not know how long he studied there before moving on to Drepung in Tibet. If they were both at Drepung at they had one thing in common; as Russian citizens they were both in Tibet illegally. Dambijantsan, perhaps already at this time a master of assumed identities, did not seem to have a problem, but word seems to have leaked about Dorzhiev’s true origins. His position precarious and running low on funds, he decided to forgo for the moment his dream of pursuing Buddhist studies in Lhasa and instead return to Örgöö. Here the record is clearer; he and Penchen Chomphel did accompany the caravan bringing the little four-year-old 8th Bogd Gegeen to Mongolia.

The Tibetan monk Luvsanchoijinimadanzinbanchug (1870–1924) was the twenty-third incarnation of Javsandamba and eighth in the line of Bogd Gegeens of Mongolia established by Zanabazar. He would witness the fall of the Qing Dynasty and oversee the rise of an independent state of Mongolia; in additional to his role as head of Buddhism in Mongolia he would eventually be crowned king of Mongolia; and he would live to see his power usurped by the Bolshevik communists who had seized control of the country in 1922. As his life was inextricably intertwined with that of Dambijantsan’s we will have more to say about him later.

By the time Dorzhiev returned to Örgöö he had decided on his religious vocation. At the age of twenty-one he was given full ordination as a monk by Penchen Chomphel and began studies with a number of other venerable monks who initiated him into various tantric practices, including the sadhana of Vajrabhairava, which would become his life-long practice. He also studied at monasteries at Wutai Shan in Shanxi Province, China, a mountain (actually a cluster of five peaks) dedicated to Manjushri, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom. He had not given up his dreams of continuing his studies in Lhasa, however. Informed by knowledgeable lamas at Wutai Shan that the obstacles he had previously faced could be overcome by generous offerings to monasteries and officials in Lhasa, he returned to Buryatia and managed to solicit a considerable amount of alms from his fellow countrymen, duly impressed as they were by the energetic and charismatic monk who already seemed destined for greater things. Part of this booty was given to Dzasak Rinpoche, a high-ranking lama at Wutai Shan. This worthy, who apparently had good connections in Tibet, smooth the way for Dorzhiev’s trip back to Lhasa and even determined an auspicious time for him to leave on his journey.

The twenty-six year old Dorzhiev arrived back in the Tibetan capital in 1880. Upon his arrival he made generous offerings to the Big Three monasteries of Sera, and Gandan, and Drepung, with an extra and especially munificent donation to Gomang College at Drepung. “By this means,” relates his biographer, “which may not exactly have been bribery, but something very much like it, the earnest and energetic young Buryat was able ‘to create favourable conditions for my studies’”. The matter of his Russian citizenship was for the time being forgotten.

Dorzhiev’s subsequent career at Lhasa was nothing short of meteoric. He studied with some of the most distinguished lamas in Tibet and in 1888, just eight years after his arrival in Lhasa, he was awarded the Buddhist equivalent of a doctorate, passing the exams with the highest honors. Normally it took fifteen or twenty year to earn such a degee. “It is . . . a little puzzling how he managed to complete the course so quickly,” observes his biographer, “for there is usually a waiting list and ample funds are necessary to pass the final hurdles. Everything points to Dorzhiev having an influential patron and sponsor. Perhaps money was reaching him from Russia—and perhaps from high places in Russia. Naturally he is reticent about anything of this kind.” He immediately began instructing Mongolian and Buryat students in Buddhistic logic and metaphysic and soon became “a recognized member of the monastic elite.”

All this would pale in comparison to his next assignment. That same year, 1888, he was appointed as tutor of the-then twelve-year old Thirteenth Dalai Lama. For the next ten years he was the Dalai Lama’ ‘inseparable eattendant,” himself instructing the Dalai Lama on a near-daily basis and present when other lamas gave him initiations into the highest teachings of Vajrayana Buddhism. He would also eventually rank as the Dalai Lama’s closest political advisor. The fact that he was a Russian citizen had been forgiven but not forgotten. Some in the Dalai Lama’s entourage were appalled that a foreigner should have became the religious leader’s right hand man, and they intrigued to have him dismissed and thrown out of Tibet. But he had the support of the Dalai Lama himself and all their objections were in vain. The Buryat monk who had first slunk into Lhasa in disguise had become one of the most powerful men in the country.

Indeed, to this day Dorzhiev has not been forgotten at Drepung Monastery. When questioning monks there in 2001 about Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia, I described him as “a famous Mongolian lama who had once studied at Drepung.” The monk I was talking to at first thought I was referring to “Ngawang Losang, the Mongolian monk from Russia.” This was of course Dorzhiev. (It turned out he also knew about Zanabazar, and was even aware that the Ninth Bogd Gegeen is now living in India.)

Much of Dorzhiev’s subsequent career lies outside the scope of our narrative. Suffice it to add here that he became the leader of the pro-Russian faction in the Tibetan court, and the British would use his Great Game intrigues with Russia, intended as they were to bring Tibet into the Russian sphere of influence, to justify their 1904 invasion of Tibet by the Younghusband Expedition. The Dalai Lama, accompanied by Dorzhiev, would flee Tibet in advance of the British invasion and eventually turn up in Örgöö, now Ulaan Baatar, the capital of Mongolia. And we will see that in addition to their probable encounter at Drepung, Dorzhiev is linked with Dambijantsan several more times, so we might well have to return to his story later on.

Given his apparent talents, Dambijantsan, like Dorzheiv, might have gone to beome a teacher himself at Drepung or some other monastery and eventually become a high-ranking lama in the Buddhist hierarchy. It was not to be. According to Roerich, “From his youth, he manifested an ambitous, impetuous, and cruel character.” This aspect of his character now came to the fore. “It is generally said,” continues Roerich, “that he killed his roommate in the monastery because of a dispute and had to flee Llhasa in order to escape from the stern monastic law. This fact is generally known in Tibet and Mongolia.”

Obviously any advancement in the monastic world was now impossible. A new stage of Dambijantsan’s life was about to begin. As Roerich notes, “It seems the murder was the crucial point of his life for from then on begins his life as an errant warrior monk, full of wonderful adventures, messianic prophecies, and cruel deeds.”

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Sunday, November 2, 2008

Mongolia | Life & Death of the False Lama #3

Using the accounts of the Diluv Khutagt, Maiskii, the Roerichs, and Others who either knew Dambijantsan or gathered information from those who did, the findings of later researchers who had access to Mongolian and Russian archives, and my own Preliminary Research on the Ground in Mongolia, I am finally ready to piece together a rough outline of his life.

Dambijantsan, the False Lama

Admittedly, some of the most basic biographical details remain elusive. Even his actual name is uncertain. “Dambijantsan” is a Mongolian name said to be based on the Tibetan words for “standard-bearer.” George Roerich gives his name as “Ten-pei Jal-tsen (bsTsan-pa’I rgyal-mtshan),” apparently a rendering of the original Tibetan. Yet other sources suggest that his given name in Mongolian was Davaasambuu. But while Dambijantsan was ethnically Mongolian, he was born in Russia and was nominally a Russian citizen. Thus he reportedly also had the Russian, or at least semi-Russian, name of Amur Sanaev. This name would appear to be nothing more than a Russianized form of “Amursanaa.” As we shall see, Amursana was the Oirat chieftain who had led the last great Mongol revolt against the Qing Dynasty in the 1750s. Dambijantsan would eventually claim to be a descendant of Amursana, and still later his reincarnation. That he was a actual lineal descendant of the Oirat chieftain seems highly unlikely, and a reincarnation a matter of speculation. If he was not related to Amursana, is it really possible, as one Russian researcher maintains, that he was born into a family named Sanaev and given the name “Amur”? The coincidence seems to great. Or was this just another alias chosen to further enhance his connection with the illustrious Amursana, who according to legend would return and once again lead the Mongols in revolt against the Qing oppressors? In any case, as late as 1914 Dambijantsan appeared to have Russian documents giving his name as Amur Sanaev. He also traveled under the Russian alias Ichinnorov amd the Tibetan alias of Dawa Shabrong. After arriving in Mongolia in the early 1890s he would acquire a whole host of Mongolian aliases and nicknames.

Dambijantsan’s age is also a matter of dispute. His contemporaries had no clear idea of how old he was. Like the notorious Count St. Germain of eighteenth century Europe Dambijantsan had the curious trait of appearing ageless. The Diluv Khutagt, who knew him for a period of over thirty years, says simply, ““No one knew his real age. No one knew the real truth about him.” A. M. Pozdneev, writing in 1892, noted that Dambijantsan “was about thirty or forty years old.” Yet A. V. Burdukov, who would become very well acquainted with Dambijantsan, stated that when he first met him, some twenty years later in 1912, “He looked a little over forty.” If we are believe these accounts it would appear that Dambijantsan aged very little between 1891 and 1912. These discrepancies in his appearance would cause some to speculate that there was more than one Dambijantsan, and that some witnesses had confused the various characters who had assumed his name. Indeed, as we shall see. several imposters did eventually appear in Mongolia, all claiming to be Dambijantsan.

After his death various researchers would claim that the Dambijantsan was born in 1860, although the actual source of this information is never quite clear. One Mongolian scholar, apparently using a comment of Dambijantsan’s on the astrological details of his birth, would claim he was born in 1862. Lacking any more concrete information we will use 1860 as the probable date of his birth. This would make him thirty years old when he first arrived in Mongolia in 1890, fifty-two when he took part in the Siege of Khovd in 1912, and sixty-three at the time of his assassination at Gongpochuan in 1923.

As we have seen Pozdneev as far back as 1892 was aware that Dambijantsan was a Kalmyk of the Little Dörböt tribe dwelling on the Caspian Steppe north of the Caspian Sea. But even this simple fact about Dambijantsan’s life would later be obscured behind a welter of myths. In 1926 Owen Lattimore was told by caravan men on the Winding Road caravan route that Dambijantsan was variously a “a true Mongol” (i.e., Khalkh or Eastern Mongol), a Russian, or a Buryat from Siberia. “The most substantial story of all,” opined Lattimore, “is that he a Chinese from Manchuria who had served in Mongolia as a herder of ponies for the princely firm of Ta Sheng K’uei.” He also relates that one of the things most remembered about Dambijantsan by those who had known or at least seen him was his habit of changing his dress every day or so from Russian to Mongolian to Chinese and back again. This constant changing of his clothes could only have added to the confusion about his origins. Dambijantsan himself told A. V. Burdukov he was a Khalkh Mongol born at a place called Ashikh Khurgan Chuluu in the old Tüsheet Khan Aimag. That Burdukov, who spoke Mongolian, apparently believed this story was strange, since several other people who knew Dambijantsan commented that he spoke the Khalkh dialect of the Mongolian language very poorly. Even to this day people in Gov-Altai aimag remember stories about Dambijantsan’s poor command of the Khalkh Dialect and his use of the words from the Kalmyk or Western Mongolian Form of the Mongolian language.

Later evidence, including letters written by Dambijantsan himself, confirm that he was indeed a Kalmyk. One source maintains that he was born near the town of Aidarkhan, somewhere on the west bank of the Volga—the name no longer appears on modern maps—but again the original source of this information is unclear. Pozdneev’s assertion that Dambijantsan belonged to the Dörböt tribe, a subdivision of the Kalmyks, would also seem to be correct.

The people known as Kalmyks had left the main body of Oirats, or Western Mongols, most of whom were then concentrated in what is now western Mongolia and the Chinese province of Xinjiang, in the early seventeenth century and had migrated en masse westward to the steppes on either side of the Volga River north of the Caspian Sea, an area then nominally controlled by Russia. There they became the only enclave of Mongolians who practiced the traditional nomadic lifestyle in Europe. Several different tribes, including the Torgut and the Dörböt, had made the migration. Each kept its name but they became known in general as Kalmyks. Thus Dambijantsan was a Kalmyk of the Dörböt tribe. Since by the time he was born Russia had asserted full control over the area he was a Russian citizen, a factor which was to play a crucial role in his life. Yet he always identified with Oirats, or Western Mongols, from which his tribe the Dörböt had originated, and would eventually assert that his real homeland was the traditional territories of the Oirats in western Mongolia and northwest China.

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Monday, September 29, 2008

Mongolia | Töv Aimag | Horse and Camel Trips

Skipped out to Töv Aimag to meet up with Zevgee and his family. The general idea was to make an eight-day horse trip east into Khentii Aimag with stops at Khökh Nuur and Baltan Bereeven Khiid. This would be the 10th horse or camel trip I have done with Zevgee.

Let’s see: there was my first trip with Zevgee and his son Bayaraa in 1997, described in my Travels in Northern Mongolia. Then a 10-day 160-mile horse trip from Zevgee’s ger on Terelj Gol to the Minj River in the Khentii Mountains, just south of the Siberian border, retracing the route used by Temüjin, Chingis Khan, when he went to Siberia to capture his wife Börte back from the Merkits.

Looking north from the pass leading to the Minj River.

The extremely remote Minj River Valley near the Siberian border

Irises in bloom along the Minj River

Zevgee, momentarily befuddled, getting directions from Irina

On the way back from the Minj River we crossed Ongoljiin Davaa to the beginning of Ongoljiin Gol. This is the ultimate source of the 2,728 mile-long Ongoljiin-Onon-Shilka-Amur River System, according the National Geographic Altas of the World the 9th longest river system in the world.

Zevgee at the ultimate source of the Ongoljiin-Onon-Shilka-Amur River System

A year or two later Zegvee, his son Bayara, and I traveled to Bayankhongor Aimag, where Zevgee was born and where his brothers still live, and did a 124-mile camel trip from near the süm center of Shinejinst to the Sacred Mountain of Segs Tsagaan Bogd Uul near the Chinese border.

That was followed by a 109 mile horse trip Circumnavigating Burkhan Khaldun Uul, the mountain worshipped by Chingis Khan, with a stop at the Onon Hot Springs.

Then a 118 mile horse trip to Yestiin Rashaan the Hotsprings studied by Zanabazar, First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia, with a stop at the ruins of Saridgiin Khiid, the monastery constructed by Zanabazar.

A year later we returned to Bayankhongor Aimag for a 272 mile camel trip following the Route of the 13th Dalai Lama from Shar Khuls Oasis to Amarbuyant Monastery.

Then back to Töv Aimag for a 168 mile horse trip to Asralt Khairkhan, the highest peak in the Khentii Range and after that yet another trip (my third) to the Summit of Burkhan Khaldun, the mountain worshipped by Chingis.

And just last year we did a Trip to Khargiin Khar Nuur with Gunj, the International Adventuress. I also visited Zevgee and Tümen Olzii for Tsagaan Sar Last Year in Baga Nuur.

Zevgee is a keen collector of photos for his family album so every year I take a family photo for him.

2008 Family Photo

Zevgee’s newest grandson, Kherlenbat

Then I bought a sheep and we prepared it for the upcoming horse trip. The first sheep I bought from Zevgee in 1997 cost $10. For this one I paid $55. And of course I did not claim the innards, the head, or the skin. The next morning we packed up our horses and left for Khökh Nuur.

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Sunday, October 21, 2007

Mongolia | Bayankhongor Aimag | Ja Lama's Hideouts

During my talks with Zekhuu in Ekhiin Gol he mentioned that Dambijantsan (a.k.a. Ja Lama) maintained a hideout in the mountains twenty or thirty miles south of Shar Khuls Oasis, in western Bayankhongor. I had visited Shar Khuls Oasis (Yellow Reeds Oasis) a few years earlier on a 12-day camel trip from Amurbuyant Monastery to Ekhiin Gol. Shar Khuls was the crossroads of several old caravan routes and one of the camp sites of the 13th Dalai Lama when he fled from Tibet to Mongolia in 1904 following the invasion of Tibet by Arch-Imperialist and later Proto-New-Ager Francis Younghusband. It is perhaps now best known as one of the prime habitats of the rare Gobi Bear, or masaalai.

Zekhuu said that the ruins of a small stone house that Dambijantsan lived in as well as some watchtowers and fortifications could still be seen at the hideout. He added said the hideout was quite difficult to find and that he was unable to give verbal directions to the place. He was busy with his vegetable crop at the moment but if I ever returned to Ekhiin Gol in the off-season he would be glad to take me there. Just before we left, he added as an afterthought that we should talk to a man in Shinejinst named Shukhee. This man might have more information about Dambijantsan.

It was 96º F. when we left Ekhiin Gol. The desert floor slopes up almost imperceptibly from here at 3224 feet to a pass through the Gov-Altai Mountains known as Tsagaan Khaalga (White Gate) at 7407 feet. The only real indication that we have gained 4183 feet in altitude is the rapidly dropping temperatures.
Tsagaan Khaalga (White Gate)
By the time we reached Shinejinst, a couple of hundred feet lower than the pass, a drizzling rain and gusting winds made the 58º temperature seem downright chilly. Half a dozen enquiries later we finally found Shukhee’s ger in a wooden-walled compound in one of the ger neighborhoods. We entered to find a large elderly shaven-headed man sitting cross-legged on his bed. The first thing I noticed about him were his enormous ears, the kind often seen on old monks in Mongolia. They are supposed to be a sign of spiritual propensities. Zanabazar, the First Bogd Gegeen of Mongolia, is always portrayed with huge ears. Also, his eyes had that milky, inwardly-turned look often seen on old monks, as if they had spent the greater part of the lives examining interior realities. If he was a monk, however, he was dressed rather incongruously in red silk Chinese pants and a rather stylish red and blue striped shirt.
Shukhee
“What do you want?” he abruptly enquired, without any introduction. We told him that we were seeking information about Damijantsan and we had heard that he might know something about him. The old man simply sat there for at least three minutes not saying a thing. For a moment I thought we going to be shown the door. Then he just shrugged and said, “What can I tell you?” Hoping to break the ice I asked if he was born here in Shinejinst. “No,” he said, “I was born in the Himalayas.” The Himalayas? This interview was suddenly taking an unexpected turn. Where in the Himalayas? I asked. “In the mountains between Hami and Barkol.” Hami and Barkol are towns in Xinjiang, China, and the mountains between them are the Tian Shan, the majestic range that separates the Zungarian Depression and the Tarim Basin, and not the Himalayas. “You mean the Tian Shan?” I asked. “Oh yes, in Chinese the Tian Shan.” I have no idea why he said the Himalayas, unless for him “Himalayas” was just a generic term for high, snowy mountains. He said that at that time there were many Mongolians living in this area. Anyhow, at the age of sixteen or so his family moved to Gongpochuan, in Ganzu Province, China, site of Dambijantsan’s last stronghold, and where he was finally assassinated. He was 87 years old—born in 1920—so this would have been around 1936.
Shukhee
They lived at Gongpochuan for two years and he had often visited the ruins of Dambijantsan’s fortress. He said that on the hillside above the fortress were thirteen springs. On the top of the hill was a small baishin, or cabin. Dambijantsan apparently lived in this baishin in the summertime. Between Dambijantsan’s own winter lodging in the fortress and the baishin there was a sizable tunnel capable of holding perhaps a hundred people. He could not say if it was natural or man-made, but he did say that the walls of the cave were covered with paintings of Buddhist deities, portraits of famous lamas, and more mundane subjects like camels and horses. This would imply that the walls were smooth enough to serve as a surface for paintings and thus would appear to be man-made. This tunnel served as both an underground storage place and a possible escape route in case the fortress was attacked.

Around the fortress there were palisades that once housed at least 40 families. They had been driven from the palisades after Dambijantsan had been killed. At the time Shukhee was there many had already moved to the Edrin Nuruu ( Edrin Mountain Range) in Gov-Altai Aimag, but some still lived in the surrounding area. He said that there were also many other Gov-Altai people in Gansu province at this time, not Dambijantsan’s followers, but refugees from the new communist government in Mongolia. The last of Dambijantsan’s followers returned to Mongolia in 1944-45 and also settled around Edrin Nuruu, where they became know as the New People.

What was his profession, I wondered. He shrugged, “I was just a herder.” He really did not look like a simple herder to me, but I did not pursue this further.

He also mentioned there were two caravan routes from Mongolia to Suzhou (now Jiayuan) in Gansu; one from Tsogt in Gov-Altai and one from Amarbuyant in Bayankhongor. Both passed through Gongpochuan. He had taken both these routes many times by camel. I had already done the Amarbuyant to Shar Khuls section of the latter route, as mentioned above.

I asked him about his own opinion of Dambijantsan. He said,
“I have no opinion about Dambijantsan. Whether he was a good man or a bad man I cannot say, because I did not know him. I cannot judge him. I can say that my parents, who were alive when Dambijantsan was alive, believed that that he was a sly, crafty, and cruel man who had great power over people and could easily manipulate them. In the end they believed he was a bad man.”
Finally I asked if he any more he would like to say anything more about Dambijantsan or Gongpochuan. He said, “I have nothing more to say about anything. Now I am just sitting here waiting to die.” One that somber note we made our departure.

We proceeded to a gas station to refuel our jeep. A man who was there also getting fuel said, “Oh, I saw that were visiting Lama Shukhee.” Lama Shukhee? “I thought he was a goat herder,” said I. He laughed. “Oh, no, no, he is a quite famous lama in Bayankhongor.” I had a sidebar with Shandas, my translator, and it turns out that she asked him what his profession was when he was living at Gongpochuan, when he was in his teens. Apparently at that time he was still looking after his family’s herds. Only later did he take up a religious vocation. I thought about going back and questioning him again about his life as a lama, but then remembered his last words and decided against it.

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Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Mongolia | Bayankhongor Aimag | Ekhiin Gol Oasis

Bopped out to Bayankhongor for a quick visit to Ekhin Gol Oasis, the southernmost settlement of the aimag. After dropping down from the high plateau around Shinejinst to the Gobi Desert the first oasis we encountered was Zuunmod.
Zuunmod Oasis
From Zuunmod we went south to Nogoon Tsav, a picturesque assortment of green (nogoon), red, white and black rock formations. Dinosaur bones are occasionally found here.
Nogoon Tsav
Rock formations south of Nogoon Tsav
The Wedding Ovoos. Locals who get married alway stop here to built an ovoo and down a bottle or two of vodka.
After traveling for over sixty miles through the barren desert it is a downright shock to come to the luxurious greenery of Ekhiin Gol Oasis.
Ekhiin Gol Oasis
All kinds of vegetables grow here in amazing profusion, including tomatoes (for which the oasis is famous), cabbage, cucumbers, carrots, onions, potatoes, and all kinds of melons.
Also sunflowers!
One of the seven springs which feed Ekhiin Gol Oasis
My main reason for visiting Ekhiin Gol was to track down information on Dambijantsan, a.k.a. Dambijaltsan, Dambija, Ja Lama, Ja Bagsh, Toushegun Lama, False Lama, Avenger Lama, Two Camel Lama, and Chia (Jia in Pinyin) Lama. Earlier this year I had tried to visit Dambijantsan’s Fortress in the Black Gobi. Now I wanted to meet with an eighty-year old man named Zeskhüü whose wife, now deceased, was the daughter of Dambijantsan’s chief lieutenant. This man had a wealth of information about Dambijantsan which he was not at all hesitant to share. We talked to him for a total of five or six hours. I will have details of his revelations about Dambijantsan later.
Zeskhüü
Zeskhüü
Shandas, who accompanied me on the trip. She is an excellent translator and a very personable young woman. I learned a lot from her.

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