C Don Croner’s World Wide Wanders

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Mongolia | Khan Bank Gallery | Roerich Show

Sashayed over to the “Roerich and Me” Art Show Opening at the Khan Bank Art Gallery. Tout Ulaan Baatar was there, and I do mean tout, all the way from J. Peter Morrow, the Czar, or perhaps I should say Khan, of Khan Bank, down to what appeared to be some street people who apparently snuck in for the lavish selection of appetizers and free drinks. On display were sixty-eight works, mostly by secondary and art school students, inspired by the life and works of legendary set designer, painter, mystic, occultist, alleged spy, and Dedicated Aghartian-Shambhalist Nicholas Roerich. The First Prize for the Exhibit, 150,000 tögrögs, will be awarded at the official opening of the Roerich-Mongolia Museum on July 6. If you have not already bought your plane tickets and made hotel reservations do so now, since the opening is just a few days ahead of the annual Naadam Celebration, which tends to flood the city with visitors.

The spacious and well-lit Khan Bank Art Gallery

Selection of Roerich-related works in the Gallery

Roerich-Mongolia Museum Eminences Glenn Mullin, Professor Ishdorj, and Professor Bira
Selection of Roerich-related works

Selection of Roerich-related works

Painting of a Herdsman inspecting a painting of Nicholas Roerich painting a painting

Roerich Reproduction byseventeen year-old budding artist Bumgerel

Bumgerel

The Ever-Stunning Mönkhtsetseg showing off her reproduction of Roerich’s 25th King of Shambhala painting
Great Genghis Expeditions Moghul Enkha gracing the Opening with her refulgent radiance, beside which the Sun itself is forced to play second fiddle.
Left to Right: Lhagvasüren Bayar, Professor Bira, Poly-Linguist Shuree, who by the way was celebrating her 39th birthday on the day of the opening, Glenn Mullin, who bizarrely enough was also celebrating his birthday on the same day, and the stately Ms. Chantsalmaa, head of Khan Bank’s Marketing Department.

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Sunday, June 21, 2009

Mongolia | Zaisan Tolgoi | Summer Solstice

The Summer Solstice occurred here in Zaisan Tolgoi at 1:46 p.m. today. Below is the relevant data for the day. Note that the length of the day will be three seconds shorter tomorrow.

There were no more people on the mountaintops to the south of my hovel than usual for a Sunday, but quite a crowd turned out at Stonehenge.
A record crowd of about 36,500 revellers has welcomed the dawn of the Summer Solstice at Stonehenge. The number of people attending the event caused roads in the area to become gridlocked in the hours leading up to sunrise at 0458 BST. Druid ceremonies took place alongside music and Morris dancing, however overcast skies obscured the sun. Police praised the crowd and said there had been only 25 arrests for minor disorder and drug offences.

Druids at Stonehenge

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Saturday, June 20, 2009

Mongolia | Ulaan Baatar | Summer Solstice

The Summer Solstice will occur here at exactly 1:46 p.m tomorrow, June 21. Usually I go to the summit of Bogd Khan Uul to celebrate the Summer Solstice, but this year due to circumstances beyond my control I had to do my annual Bogd Khan trip on June 7. Accompanying me were Saraa and Croatian Castle Restorer and Badarchin Vedran, who happens to be in town to work on the restoration of the Roerich-Mongolia Museum.

Vedran

As long-time readers of this blog know, I consider myself a connoisseur of drinking water. The water in this small stream not far from the start of the trail from Mandzhir Khiid to the summit is some of the best to be found locally. It is worth the drive from Ulaan Baatar just to sip this icy-cold water straight from the recesses of Bogd Khan Mountain.

Saraa sampling sumptous water

Proceeding on, we soon reached the 7,440-foot summit of the mountain.

Saraa didn’t even work up a sweat climbing to the summit

Ovoo at the summit

Saraa telling her beads at the summit

Since I have already been to the summit of Bogd Khan Uul this summer I will probably go to some pinnacle near my hovel in Zaisan Tolgoi to celebrate the Solstice. According to Sky & Telescope, the Summer Solstice is also “called ‘Midsummer’ Night—traditionally a time of all-night bonfires and partying, when the veil between our world and the world of elves and fairies was supposed to be unusually thin.” I will light no bonfires or engage in any bacchanalias, but will instead recite orisons suitable for the troubled times in which we live. Retire to the mountaintop of your choice for appropriate ceremonies, but in keeping with Buddhist principles please refrain from making any animal or human sacrifices.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Mongolia | Ulaan Baatar | Cold Snap

Temperatures here plunged below freezing last night with fresh snow on the Mountains Ringing the City. This with the Summer Solstice only two days away!

Fresh snow! I’m loving this!

Russia | Astrakhan | Dambijantsan

On May 12, 1917, Dambijantsan, still an exile under police supervision, arrived in Astrakhan, the ancient city near the mouth of the Volga River, and took up residence on what is now Pestelya Street.

Pestelya Street

On June 20, 1917 he received a letter from A. V. Burdukov, the Russian trader in Mongolia who had befriend him during his earlier stay in Mongolia. On the same day he sat down and wrote a reply to Burdukov. “I am extremely delighted by the warm greetings from you and your wife and by your kind and sincere wishes for me,” gushed the one-time torturer, always a gentleman in his letters. He mentions that he would be released from police supervision sometime in 1917 but added that he had no plans to return to Mongolia, contrary to what he had written before. Indeed, he now complains that the Mongol people had never properly appreciated the efforts he made on their behalf: “ . . . trying to free Mongolia from the Chinese yoke, I have gained nothing for myself except a lot of psychological and physical problems . . . as a result of my kind efforts toward the well-being of the Mongolia nation I have only suffered . . .”

He is still involved with some kind of unspecified business affairs with Burdukov and asks about the money that was supposed to be forwarded to him via Russian consulate in Khovd. Meanwhile inflation is running wild, the prices of all commodities, including mutton, bread, butter, are soaring. “Nothing is reasonable,” he grouses, and boots are altogether unavailable. He also asks for photos of Mongolian noblemen he knew and a copy of a magazine article about his exploits during the Siege of Khovd in 1912. He may have claimed that he had no intention of returning to Mongolia but his thoughts were clearly turning there. On June 30 he wrote again in reply to a letter of Burdukov’s:
I am safe and sound, thanks the Lord. I would like to thank you for your kindness and sincerity to me. You were the first among my friends whom I met in Mongolia and now the one who writes a letter with kind and faithful regards to me. I am extremely happy to receive your letter, I will never forget your kindness and friendly treatment to me. Could you please send my best regard to your wife?
He then reiterates his complaints about the ingrate Mongolians:
I am really disappointed that my efforts done for the welfare of Mongolia were not valued. I fought with China for two years in order to release my fatherland from the Chinese yoke. I was wounded twice during the war, I didn’t try to spare myself; I risked with my life for Mongolia. This year I am going be released from police supervision, but anyway I am not going to Mongolia this year. I didn’t do or even think to do anything bad for my Fatherland, but my Fatherland didn’t try to save and protect me when I was in a disastrous circumstances . . .
Oddly, he mentions a college he claims to have founded in the “Altai Region.” He only wanted the people there to be “literate and intelligent” but for this act of magnanimity the Mongols were also ungrateful. There is no other mention anywhere of this college by Dambijantsan or anyone else and it might well have been the product of his imagination.

By then situation had deteriorated even further. Bread was valuable only with a ration card. One person was permitted to buy only two pounds of flour and five pounds of rice a month. New boots were a staggering 120 rubles.

The good news was that the Astrakhan officials had been informed by telegram that the money Burdukov had given to the Russian consul in Khovd was on the way by post. He expected to receive it in a few days. He also notes in passing that on June 28, two days before, he had met with the academician B. Ya. Vladimirtsov, who had early recorded the epic poetry about Dambijantsan’s role in the siege of Khovd. For a more substantial account of this encounter we have to turn to Vladimirtsov’s own letter to Burdukov, dated Sept. 12, 1917. Dambijantsan, Vladimirtsov discovered, had changed considerable:
When he first entered the room I did not recognize him. Nothing was left of the previous Ja Lama. Try to picture a thin, gaunt man, dressed in a suit and lacquered books. He made a low bow and with great effort I finally recognized him. Once he was the formidable and awe-inspiring Dambijantsan! Such is Fate!
Dambijantsan told Vladimirtsov that he living fairly well in Astrakhan and that he was pretty much free to come and go as he pleased, although technically he had not been released from police supervision. No one was really interested in him. No one in Astrakhan knew that he had once been a monk (and apparently no one knew about his dubious past in Mongolia). He repeated his gripe that the Mongols did not appreciate his efforts to regain their freedom. He claimed that he suffered greatly in his attempts to help his own people, the Dörböts, but they too did not believe in him. Now, he claimed, he wanted to live among Russians and not Kalmyks or Buryats. He was, so Vladimirtsov thought, renouncing his whole past. “Who is this character, who is this person? wondered Vladimirtsov, “I couldn’t manage to understand this man. In most ways, he now makes a pitiful impression.”

Dambijantan appeared to be at loose ends. “To my mind, if he wanted, he could go anywhere. And despite what Dambijantsan said, Vladimirtsov could not shake the idea that he had “some special plans” up his sleeve.

On August 1 Dambijantsan replied to Burdukov’s letter of June 3, which he had received that very day. Apparently Burdukov had send him some khadags and fabric by separate mail but he had not received these yet. He says that very soon now he will be released from police supervision but that he still has no plans to return to Mongolia. “I want to live in Russia for now, maybe forever,” he writes. But his interest in Mongoiia has not died out completely. He asks Burdukov to send photos of prominent princes and lamas, including the Sartuul Tsetsen Van, Jalchiggombodorj, who ruled over the Sarts who lived in what is now northwest Zavkhan Aimag and eastern Uvs Aimag and who earlier had been a partisan of Dambijantsan’s. Was Dambijantsan just getting nostalgic, or was he actually trying to keep up his links with his former followers in Mongolia. In most of his letters he states that he has not intention of returning to Mongolia but could this have been for the benefit of the police, who might well have been reading his correspondence?

Every day he went to the post office checking for the money which the Russian consul in Khovd had supposedly sent him. Thus he was in the uncomfortable position of having to wait for the proverbial check in the mail. By mid-September he was even more desperate for funds. On September 18, 1917, he wrote to Burdukov that he would like to borrow 14,000 rubles from him. Apparently permission from the Mongolian government is needed to transfer the money out of the country, and he planned to make a formal request to the Russian Consulate in Örgöö, asking that they acquire the proper authorization from the Mongolian authorities. He states again, this time emphatically, that he has no intention of returning to Mongolia. Why would Burdukov be willingly to loan what was then a considerable sum of money to a man with no apparent source of livelihood, who lived thousands of miles away, and who had no intention of returning to Mongolia? Why would the Mongolian government, which had been only too happy to be rid of Dambijantsan, be willing to authorize such a loan?

Meanwhile, on October 25 (Julian Calendar) Bolshevik Red Guards seized the headquarters of the Provincial Government in the Winter Palace in St. Petersburg, triggering the Second Revolution setting in motion a civil war which was to last until 1922 when the Soviet Union was created. In his next letter, dated December 23, Dambijantsan makes no direct mention of the October Revolution, noting only that “it is still quiet and peaceful in Astrakhan city, as well as the whole province,” and that prices of mutton, beef, butter, and flour have soared even higher since he last wrote. The main reason for this letter is to thank Burdukov for forwarding via the Russian Consul in Örgöö 1000 rubles, apparently an advance on the 14,000 ruble loan he had requested. Gushed the Two White Camel Lama:
“I am grateful to you,” and I am really delighted to hear about your good health and the friendly efforts you have made on my behalf. I had been worrying about you and your health since I hadn’t heard from you for so long. There is no one dearer than you for me in this world, you are my only faithful friend forever.”
He also has nothing but kind words for the Russian Consul in Mongolia. It is not clear if this is the same official who had earlier arrested him; if so, all is now forgotten:
Could you pass my regards and gratitude to Mr. [Russian] Consul for his help to me in difficult time, he was the one who pitied me when I was in difficult condition, sending the money he . . . please tell Mr. Consul that I would be grateful to him till the end of my life, that I would never forget his kindness and could you also ask him if he could send me the rest of the money.
As soon as he gets the entire 14,000 rubles, he goes on, he intends to buy a house near the Kalmyk Bazaar about seven miles from Astrakhan. Here, he claims, he intends to “settle down.” The Bolshevik Revolution does not seem to be worrying him unduly at this point, and he once again makes it clear—at least in writing—that he has no intention of returning to Mongolia. Intriguingly he adds: “As you suggested, I have started taking notes and writing down my life experiences up until now. I will I will be able to send these to you in the spring, as soon I finish them.” Was the mysterious badarchin finally going to lift the veil from his myth-strewn life? Would his memoirs shed light on his past, or would they, like the self-serving accounts of maguses like Madame Blavatsky and George Gurdjieff, simply add another layer to the obfuscation? If he did start his memoirs they have not survived

On December 23 Dambijantsan writes again to Burdukov in much the same vein. He has received another 1000 rubles and is waiting for the remaining 12,000. Here he says, confusingly, that the money is not a loan from Burdukov but instead funds owed to him by the Mongolian government. “Transfer the money as quickly as possible,” he pleads, “as I would like to stay forever in Astrakhan, living among the Kalmyks. I would like to buy a house for 4000 rubles near the Kalmyk Bazaar, seven miles from Astrakhan town; flats are very expensive here in the city.”

Dambijantsan’s final letter from Astrakhan is dated February 5, 1918. Civil war has broken out in Astrakhan. On one side are Astrakhan Cossacks, with whom most and the Kalmyks have sided, and on the other is a garrison of soldiers and local workers loyal to the Bolsheviks. The soldiers and workers barricaded themselves in building in the middle of the city and fighting raged for eigthteen days. Dambijantsan:
There were almost 800 Cossacks, with 200 officers . . .and about 1200 soldiers and workers. The Cossacks were armed with twelve field guns, thirteen machine guns and many rifles. The soldiers were armed with rifles and machine guns. The soldiers won the fight. The best part of the center of Astrakhan town has been burnt. Many shops and stores have been robbed by looters. There has been a loss of several millions of rubles. Lots of people-—fighters and peaceful citizen alike—died, about two and a half thousand people. . . Everywhere there is huge unemployment. The capital of all the merchants and the rich have been confiscated.
He has not received the 1200 rubles he was expecting and is in dire straits. Prices of all commodities are now outrageous. “Everything is so expensive I cannot afford anything.” He finally did receive at least some of the money owned him, but here was no longer any question of buying a house and settling down in Astrakhan. The soldiers and workers had established a Soviet and taken tentative control of the region but the civil war was far from over. Astrakhan was not longer a safe haven. Dambijantsan gathered up what money he had and sometime March took the Trans-Siberian Railroad east. Somewhere near Lake Baikal he bought a horse and headed south along the Selenge Valley into Mongolia.

The last and most dramatic chapter of the Ja Lama’s life was about to begin.

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Thursday, June 18, 2009

World | Mantras | KarmaCar

If you are like most people you no doubt get tired of repeating the same old mantras day after day. Now you can turn your mundane vehicle into a KarmaCar and listen to your iPod or talk on your iPhone while your car does the mantra thing for you.

Mongolia | Panchen Lama Plots | Red Faith Lamrim

Digital Tibetan Altar as an interesting blurb about some Hare-Brained Scheme to fly one hundred million dollars in gold out of the Tibet on behalf of the Panchen Lama back in the 1930s. Apparently some Iowan named Gordon Bandy Enders was involved in the plot (beware of Iowans). This was just one of many conspiracies swirling about the Panchen Lama at the time. The Roerichs were also involved in some nebulous plot to create a Pan-Buddhist country in Inner Asia with the Panchen Lama at its head (of course the Roerichs wanted to model this country on Shambhala). Enders wrote a book about his adventure entitled Foreign Devils. How much of it is true is hard to say, but it is a rip-roaring read.

Speaking of books, I popped by the Internom Bookstore the other day for the Gala Book Party celebrating the recent publication of a Mongolian translation of The Words of My Perfect Teacher by Patrul Rinpoche.

English Language Version

Mongolian Language Edition entitled Red Faith Lamrim

Ma Lama, one of the publishers of the book

Ma Lama handing out free copies to distinguished guests

Baasan Lama introducing a visiting Korean monk who happened to drop by

Monday, June 15, 2009

Mongolia | Helena Roerich | Foundations of Buddhism

Helena Roerich was born on February 12, 1879, in Saint-Petersburg, Russia. Her father was the architect-academician Ivan Shaposhnikov. Her mother Ekaterina was the granddaughter of the famous Russian general Mikhail Illarionovich Kutuzov, who was instrumental in the Defeat of Napoleon in 1812. Helena was also a distant relative of outstanding Russian composer M. Mussorgsky, and she herself claimed to be a descendant of the Mongol Khans of the Golden Horde who ruled Russia in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries.

Helena Ivanovna Roerich (1879–1953)

Helena was a precociously intelligent child who could read and write in three languages by the age of seven. From a very early age she took a serious interest in literature and philosophy. She also exhibited various psychic abilities. Even as a child she claimed that two very tall men, invisible to others, often appeared to her and offered advice. She latter attended Marinsky Gymnasium and studied music. A brilliant pianist, she anticipated a career as a concert performer. Fate soon decreed otherwise.

In 1899, at the estate of her aunt Princess Y. Putyatina, Helena Shaposhnikova first met Nicholas Roerich, then twenty-five years old and a recent graduate of the St. Petersburg Academy of Arts. The spiritual affinity the two experienced led to marriage in 1901, and their subsequent conjugal relationship resulted in two sons, George, born in 1902, and Svetoslav, born in October 1904.

Helena Roerich

After the 1917 Revolution in Russia Nicholas and Helena Roerich moved to England. In 1920, while living in London, they joined the Theosophical Society, founded by their fellow Russian Madame Helena Blavatsky. On March 24, 1920, while in London, Helena allegedly meet with Master Morya, one of the Mahatmas of the Himalayas who Madame Blavatsky had also claimed as a teacher. The communications Helena said she received from Master Morya served as the basis for Agni Yoga, her own synthesis of ancient Eastern beliefs and modern Western thought.

On March 6, 1925, Nicholas and Helena Roerich, along with their son George, left Darjeeling, India on what would be a Three-year Circumnavigation of Central Asia and Tibet, with stops in Kashmir in India, Xinjiang Province in China, the Russian Altai Mountains in Siberia, Ulaan Baatar and Amarbuyant Khiid in Mongolia, the Tibetan Plateau, and numerous places in between.

Helena Roerich

The Roerich Expedition arrived in Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia in September of 1926 and soon acquired living quarters in the eastern suburbs of the city. While living here in Ulaan Baatar Helena first published her book Foundations of Buddhism, the summation of her years of inquiry into the Buddha’s teachings.

Free PDF Copy of Foundations of Buddhism. This is a Limited Time Only Offer. Don’t email me later belly-aching that you were not aware that this was a Limited Time Only Offer.
The house where the Roerichs lived in Ulaan Baatar is now the Roerich-Mongolia Museum.
Helena Roerich transmigrated in 1953. The Agni Yoga Society which she founded in 1920 is still active.

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Saturday, June 13, 2009

Mongolia | Ulaan Baatar | Khan Bank-Roerich Art Show

Sauntered into the Khan Bank with Glenn Mullin and Professor Bira for a meeting with the charming and efficacious Ms. Chantsalmaa, head of Khan Bank’s Marketing Department. Under discussion was the upcoming Roerich-Inspired Art Exhibit.

Khan Bank on Seoul Street

I am now happy to announce that in conjunction with the Opening of the Roerich-Mongolia Museum on July 6 an art exhibit featuring new works on Roerich-related themes by secondary school and art school students will be held at the Khan Bank Gallery on Seoul Street. The exhibit opens on June 22 at 5:30.p.m. and runs through July 3.

Students were given a free hand to create anything Roerichian. First Prize for the Best Work of the Exhibit will be 150,000 tögrögs. Four other prizes will also be awarded. Over fifty paintings and sculptures were submitted. Below is just a sampling. The opening night on June 22 should be quite a Lalapalooza (Invitation Only).

Pictures could be sorted into three basic groups: First, renderings of Nicholas Roerich himself:






Second: Reproductions and reinterpretations of Roerich’s own works:





Third: Paintings inspired by Roerich’s life and works:



Not quite sure how a herdsman checking his laptop is Roerichian, but hey, it’s a cool image.

Painting inspired by Roerich’s early Russian Orthodox-themed works

Seventeen year-old Bumgerel displaying her work

Bumgerel and another of her works

Secondary School artist displaying her entries

While at the Khan Bank Building for the Art Exhibit you will certainly want to pop into the recently opened Saffron Bistro, the newest caravanserai of Legendary Ulaan Baatar Restauranteur Enkhi, of Silk Road Bar and Grill fame. The Bistro has an especially strong selection of Spanish wines, to say nothing of mouth-wateringly delectable pizzas and waitresses.

Saffron Bistro

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Thursday, June 11, 2009

Mongolia | Ulaan Baatar | Roerich Museum Update

Popped out by the Roerich-Mongolia Museum in the wilds of eastern Ulaan Baatar to see how things are progressing. The whip hand behind the project, Author and Gazarchin Glenn Mullin, assured me that the Official Opening is on schedule for July 6. Book your plane tickets and hotel reservations now.

The Roerichs spent the winter of 1926–27 in this building; now the Roerich-Mongolia Museum

Nick Roerich

Croatian Castle Restorer Vedran is part of the international contingent who has been dragooned into assisting in the restoration of the Roerich House. Vedran is also a Frequent Commenter on World Wide Wanders.

Museum Intern Bolor shaming the sun with her dazzling smile

Work is progressing nicely on the interior of the building

Fresh top soil has just been delivered and plans are in motion for luxurious flower gardens
The radiant and efficacious Bolor (in English, “Crystal”) demonstrating that she is not just another pretty face; she is also perfectly competent with a watering can.
While waiting for the Grand Opening peruse a free copy (limited time only offer) of Shambhala, the classic tome by hardcore Aghartian-Shambhalist Nicholas Roerich.


For more on the Roerich Phenomenon see From Synarchy to Shambala: The Role of Political Occultism and Social Messianism in the Activities of Nicholas Roerich. Of course the Roerichs are not without their critics. Heaped-knee-deep-in-laurels Russian scholar and author (see Soviet Russia and Tibet) Alexandre Andreyev recently waded into the controversy with his book The Himalayan Brotherhood: A Theosophical Myth and its Makers (in Russian only), a blistering critique of all things Roerichian. Andreyev wrote to me:
I discuss in my book very thoroughly how the Roerichs created their version of the super myth of the Himalayan Brotherhood. I also try to explain rationally HR's phenomenon (communication with Brothers) which I ascribe to the woman's serious psychic derangement. She was an epileptic . . . and an absolute cripple although she looks a real beauty on photographs. I have in my hands a document issued by a professional doctor, Roerich's family doctor in fact, and my disclosure of this fact makes Russian Roerichites mad. The document is cited in the book. I would be happy of course if someone translated my book into English and published it in the West. People should know the truth about the Great Roerich Hoax.
Roerich was a classic magus in the style of Madame Blavatsky, George Gurdjieff, and, to a lesser extant, Dambijantsan, and as such will always stand accused of Charlatanism. No word yet on whether any anti-Roerichians will protest the Museum opening . . .

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